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Project Volvo V70R - Replacing The Worn Out Brakes

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FCP Euro Guarantee: https://goo.gl/X12mXt Link to the Brembo Brake Kit: https://goo.gl/F5dHdp When we took our project car, the 2004 Volvo V70R, for our first ride, we found that the brakes could use a little bit of help. So for our first fix we decided to completely replace the brakes and do a brake fluid flush. FCP Euro heard about our Volvo project car and decided to help us by providing a complete set of OEM Brembo rotors and pads. So in this video we'll be doing an in depth tutorial on how to change the Volvo V70R's rotors, pads, and how to do a quick brake fluid flush. Subscribe! https://goo.gl/5JdIrC Follow us on social media: http://facebook.com/ShiftingLanes http://twitter.com/ShiftingLanes http://instagram.com/Shiftinglanes For business inquiries email us: [email protected]
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Text Comments (77)
RadarUser (9 months ago)
Some tips: when working on the front brakes, turn the steering wheel so the caliper you're working on faces out and away from the car. Do this after removing the tires and it will give you better access for caliper bracket bolts. 2. You could've mounted the retracted caliper piston assembly first before just dropping in the pads with grease. This would minimize the mess. 3. As others said, Use less brake grease on the back of the pads because it will just collect dust/grime. 4. You did not grease the caliper slide pins. It's important to make sure these are free to move around and free of grime.
yusrah tube (1 year ago)
I like and i sub keep the great work on
I Am What Is (1 year ago)
Are the bolts to remove the caliper the same for a v70?
David Schwab (1 year ago)
I could've sworn the torque spec for the lug bolts was 104 ft-lb; a bit higher than the average car. Something I believe they missed - I wasn't paying full attention so I could be wrong - make sure to clean the rotors before installing, then check again at the end before putting the wheel on. Any grease on the rotors will cause you to have less stopping power and could potentially damage the pads.
David Sullivan (1 year ago)
I'm looking to change the fluid in my rear differential and Haldex. Have you considered doing this on your project car? I'm having a hard time finding any good instructions on how to do it. I have a 2006 V70r.
tarren garfinkle (1 year ago)
Volvo for Life fuk BMW
Enzo Fxx (1 year ago)
easy on the grease bro
joe coquerre (1 year ago)
Hope you cleaned the inside of the wheels before reinstalling(hate it when "pros"don't clean parts when they have full access),also use the opportunity of wheels off to Dynamat behind the arches,enormous confort gain(noise,heat...etc)........And on..........
meehhhe Of You (1 year ago)
i wouldn't say you did it wrong, but i will say you .. could have done better. i been a volvo driver for a number of years and i been replacing parts myself including the breaks and fluids, in farm raised and still live on a farm so i have good experience with it. you dont need to nor want to grease the pads that much, if at all, i never grease my pads like that, if i apply anything it maybe a fluid film or anti sieve to the slides.usually not even that anymore, dirt will stick to that and make it a complete nightmare light on including potentially damaging the rubber boot in the caliber from vibration rubbing partials of grit together. as for bleeding your brakes, again nothing wrong with how you did it, but i prefer gravity bleeding myself which is basically bleeding the brakes without pumping the pedals, you crack open the nozzle after filling reservoir and you let gravity handle it, given the reservoir is higher up it works just slow but the advantages is you can crack open both sides of the caliber and not have to run around 8x. other advantage is you dont have to worry about it, you work on other parts of the car for 10 minutes come back check to see if the fluid is getting cleaner and tighten it back up top off the reservoir and do the other the same way..also you can change the fluid before putting the calipers back on the disk, although i dont recommend it, gravity bleeding does allow it if you want since no extra pressure extending anything. use brake parts cleaner heavily, everytime you touch that disk even with clean gloves on, drown it in cleaner spray and let it quickly vaporize or wipe it down with a nice heavy duty cloth to remove something if it refuses then drown it again and let it vaporize clean. then put on the calibers and tighten everything, and repeat drowning it all in break clean...its clean, and it works wonder and is worth doing to eliminate any potential risks that may come of contaminating the surface with grease.
Ian Wardell (1 year ago)
You know that Volvos (The R's especially) can be controlled by VIDA/DICE. .... meaning all you have to do is click "Release brakes" and it will retract the pistons in so you can slide the pads in and out... I know this because I have one.
Yen Chang (1 year ago)
Subscribed. I have a 2003 V70 (naturally aspirated) so I'm watching with interest. Been a customer of FCP Euro for a while. Great service and range!
Oleg knows best (1 year ago)
Easy as hell to work on those big volvo's
Bob Melusky (1 year ago)
I use ATE Blue brake fluid. It holds more moisture and has a high temp rating. They have a gold color as well which makes complete fluid changes a snap. Just alternate colors- I do mine every 2 years. I also use a vacuum bleeder.
Bob Melusky (1 year ago)
That's a shame. I've been working off a case of it and I think I used the last of my blue that last time I flushed the V90. Thanks for letting me know.
Bruce Beauvais (1 year ago)
It's a great idea but ATE Blue was recalled from the US market as it's color doesn't meet the DOT brake fluid color spec. If you can find unopened cans hiding somewhere- great.
Joachim Christiaens (1 year ago)
Best way to do a proper flush is to repeat these steps: - Open bleed valve - Press brake pedal all the way down AND KEEP DOWN - Close the bleed valve - Release the brake pedal ...repeat a few times and check brake fluid level in the reservoir, keep adding fresh fluid as you go. Just pumping the pedal with open bleed valve does not get rid of all air and certainly doesn't flush the old fluid out properly!
Sony H K (1 year ago)
Interesting. Thanks
zoli f-sz (1 year ago)
"The torque wrench will give you wrong reading because of the anti seize" No it won't only the tension in the bolts will be higher.
LusoiHardware (1 year ago)
I really like the 360 degree camera pan of your car as you narrate the video.
Jesse Wall (1 year ago)
P.b. blaster is much better than wd40.
xalint1 (1 year ago)
These are some informative videos but please do look up the how to guide on brake replacements for these cars there are steps that was missed that are important. Also as the man says do get yourself a nice breaker bar for removing the calibers. Even if you don't buy from FCP euro they have some very accurate details on how to.
He Ka (1 year ago)
Man that blue floor jack looks awesome! PS: All that grease in the brakes will collect all the dust and rust... it will be a mess that is more abrasive than lubricating.
1MartinPL (1 year ago)
Im not sure they have ever done brakes before, one thing you dont go liberal on is grease or lube around the brake rotors and pads.....
YouRoPeeN (1 year ago)
Just want to add that you are not placing the jack stands in the correct area. The jack should be placed like the pics in this thread. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?69373 The jack stands then go on the orange paint in the pics on this thread. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?13513
phiberoptick (1 year ago)
also some cheap c-clamps make pushing the caliper pistons in for pad removal very easy. just be careful they can scratch.
phiberoptick (1 year ago)
So the OEM semi metallic pads stop well, but create a ton of dust. i picked up some ceramic Akebono pads. i quite like them. 06 S60R
Jgizzy -redacted- (1 year ago)
They really do cut down a lot on the visible brake dust. I do find though that ceramic pads don't offer as good pedal feel as semi-metallics do, somewhat degrading the total braking performance during extreme stops.
Frank White (1 year ago)
You are using WAAAAY too much grease on all of the parts. You have basically insured that you will coat your entire brake setup with dust and gunk in a very very short time. Not to mention that soaking the brake pads and rotors in grease is a huge no no, no matter what "break-in procedure" you did afterwards. Pad material absorbs the grease pretty well and quick, and there is no turning back after that. Same thing with not thoroughly wiping down the rotors with brake-cleaner before installing; wearing the same dirty gloves you used to smear all that MASSIVE amounts of grease all around the components throughout the entire procedure. Just a nasty messy sloppy job all around.
Jgizzy -redacted- (1 year ago)
Well said, all of that is 100% correct and spot on the money!
Xaevi (1 year ago)
Also remember to remove the protective coating (grease) on the new rotors (to hel prevent from rust) before you install them. Also don't smear any grease on the breake surface of the pads. Anti seeze is enough for the pins. And if you get any grease on parts that shouldn't: Use break cleaner.
Jeroen zand (1 year ago)
you don't want to put grease on the hubs! the rotors can't loose their heat because of that and they will bend.
Jake Hennessy (1 year ago)
Long live the R. Love my S60R manual
Harpagon (1 year ago)
This is a very nice series already :) i have a V70 myself, not an R tho. It has a 2.5l Volkswagen TDI engine, the same engine that's in the older VW transporters. i'm really excited to see what you'll do to make this Volvo into a beamer killer ;)
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thanks! Can't wait to show you all what this thing can really do.
William McKelvy (1 year ago)
I bought a 05 V70R about a year ago to replace my 850 turbo wagon. I just replaced my pads and everything else looked good. However your video made me think about the fluid, and since I don't know when it was last replaced, I am going to make that my weekend project. I did notice the the previous owner installed stainless steel brake lines Some of the other mods that I know of are IPD sway bars end links and bushings. The car was lowered at some point and while the ride is harsh, it rides like it is on rails, with virtually no body roll. I know some engine mods have been done but what mods I am not sure of. I am looking forward to seeing more of you videos.
Alex (1 year ago)
Top tip, to get easy access to the bolts turn the steering towards you. Top tip no2. Way too much grease going on, you don’t need that much, you risk contaminating the pads.
David Q (1 year ago)
I know it's been said before, but this is a horrible job. That amount of grease will get IN the friction material and cause glazing on the pads. Glazing gives you much less grip on your rotor. The bedding process IS NOT a degreasing or cleaning process. DON'T touch your pads. Barely touch your rotors and clean them with copious amounts of brake cleaner!
Kjell Lindberg (1 year ago)
I am rather sure that Volvo states that the bolts should be replaced every time they are removed. The bolts are painted with a tread locking compound and when torqued to correct specification. its a one time operation. To lose one or two of those bolts during driving would be BAD...
Haizum74 (1 year ago)
No need to replace them. As long as they are rust free, just add some thread lock and good to go.
dan goheen (1 year ago)
was kind of hoping to see you before and after impressions
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Dan Kelly Goheen Carter wait for the next video 🙂
Matt Pfarr (1 year ago)
FCPeuro is a good seller, I've bought a good amount of stuff for my Jetta
Aaron Whitesell (1 year ago)
FCP Euro has helped me keep over 20+ years of red and white blocks running in my family. Their customer service is truly the best. Tasca Volvo is another great source for OE Volvo parts. May I suggest using a S shaped coat hanger to hang the caliper Use a small clamp between the rotor fins and the caliper to release the grip of the pads on the rotor. Use the old pads to compress the pistions back in to the calipers Install the new pads in the caliper after the caliper is mounted. I'm able to use a small screw/bolt to set the pins on the NEW brake hardware. Don't re-use. Put a block of wood under the brake pedal to prevent maximum travel of the pedal which may cause diaphragm/ seal rupture. Pull the brake light fuse.
PARDS2 (1 year ago)
Salil Sawarim (1 year ago)
PARDS2 use piece of 2x4, same result...
PARDS2 (1 year ago)
Tamas Haasz (1 year ago)
and what about the e-brake shoes? Once you do all of these then its highly recommended to complete the e-brake shoe replacement....
Kyle Froman (1 year ago)
I subscribed when I saw you guys got the V70R and I’m really excited to see what you’ll do with it in future videos. I was planning on bleeding my brakes this weekend and I’m happy that I got a tutorial before I dove down the rabbit hole! Very informative
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thank you for the subscribe! Glad we could help you out. Just be very cautious with the bleeder valve
thegg10 (1 year ago)
Good tips, dont touch the brake pad material with your hands the oils can cause squeaking. Also a burnishing reminder to settle brand new brake pads and rotors is a MUST to prevent any future issues with your brake system. Usually what I do is called a 30/30/30, 30 mph, with a medium brake force applied, let the brakes cool for 30 seconds in between and 30 times. Takes a while but in the automotive field come backs are usually a headache when it comes to brake noises. Good job on the video tho!!!
Mercer Frey (1 year ago)
yeah, shit goes smooth with a car this new. but doing it on a car that's 20 years older than this will make your nerves explode
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Cheers to that. BRB buying stock in WD40
Laberge (1 year ago)
Hugely informative video. I've done my brakes before but the brake fluid section was very informative :)
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thank you!
Steve Dodd (1 year ago)
you can get reproduction wheels like these but they are a little rare
Steve Dodd (1 year ago)
Hiya can i just say guys, to keep a close eye on your wheel spokes. i have the same wheels as yours on my 850 R and have lost 2 wheels sofar , 1 had 3 spokes crack and the other 4 spokes out of the 5. this is a well known problem with these wheels apparently. Just thought i would let you know in case
Alfa Asher (1 year ago)
If you want something cheap and lightweight, Fast fc04. Lots of R's run them and for God's sake just go with Michelin PSS, preferably those new ones, literally no one beats them in street performance
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thank you for the heads up. We noticed some cracks on the surface on some of the wheels. We'll keep a close eye on it while we wait and shop for a different set of wheels :D. If you've got any recommendations let us know! And thanks for watching.
bigfieroman (1 year ago)
Holy crap did you guys go nuts on the grease! I am really concerned that you contaminated your pads...in the scene where you did the rear rotor, you can even see anti-seize on the braking surface. That grease may drip as it heats up, and it could get into the friction area, especially the stuff you put on the spring clip and pins. All of the guidance I have read recommends a thin smear where parts make contact. Also, you should replace your parking brake shoes. Even if they look fine, the factory shoes tend to delaminate from the backers and destroy everything in there, including the hub carrier. It ends up being a very expensive and time consuming repair. Take a look on Swedespeed if you need confirmation. Also, remove the "Exhaust Bracket of Death" if yours is still installed.
bigfieroman (1 year ago)
Don't forget the exhaust bracket of death. If you hit a speed bump with it, it can bend your driveshaft. New driveshafts are >$1,000.
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Haha! We did go crazy on the grease. We're making sure that this baby won't squeak ever. You're right about us getting some fluids on the rotors. We didn't mention it in the video but we did a proper "bedding in" process afterwards, which should clean any crap that we might have gotten on the rotors and pads. Great point about the shoes! We're adding that to the list of fixes for the future. Thanks for watching!
Edin from Arid-zona (1 year ago)
Another somewhat important step they missed...DON'T fricking smear the grease off your gloves all over the pads/rotors.
tarren garfinkle (1 year ago)
Edin_AZ very dumb I agree
Robert P (1 year ago)
You have contaminated the pads once you got grease on them. No amount of driving will get that grease off. you should have sprayed the new rotors after you installed them with brake clean. then again after you put callipers back on incase you might have got grease on them again. There is far too much grease on the back of those pads too btw. These are the brakes we are talking about here so not something to joke around with.
Ross Charlie (1 year ago)
Loved the video guys. Granted a couple of errors but nothing as big as some folks are trying to make out. No need for the insults, but some folks are like that I guess. Must admit to being a little jealous of you project. I love Volvos I was unfortunate to have a crash in mine . As I checked my car for damage I glanced over at the car that hit me . It was just a large pile of bits all the way to the A-pillar I could still open the boot on the Volvo You seem to have found the pick of the crop in the 70 R Good luck with your future videos and repairs  Daz
Ross Charlie (1 year ago)
Were the insults really necessary . You could always show us all how its done by producing your own video. I'm not saying it was a perfect job. For instance ,not pushing the pads back whilst still in the calliper would have saved time and  it  isn't indicative of the need of a flush to be able to push the pistons in to place but why not help instead of trying to make yourself look good at the expense of someone else  Just sayin ........
mr c (1 year ago)
let's see how messy you can hack a brake job lol. the soft stubby chino guy is obviously a backyard hack. you can be sure no one will be sending this idiot parts again seeing he doesn;t really know what he's doing.
penusp (1 year ago)
knowing your goal is more power I'd would have thought you'd ditch the OEM stuff and got a set of 2 piece rotors and track pads.
David Schwab (1 year ago)
I really love the Porterfield R4-S pads for street use. Far less brake fade than the stock Brembo ones.
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Stick around :P
Paul Zackenberg (1 year ago)
Sub for Volvo it is ;]
Paul Zackenberg (1 year ago)
ShiftingLanes No problem Guys :) it was a pleasure because im a Volvo lover ;) I have S40II with 2.4 D5 and i love it :D P.s : Can't wait for more content with that V70R.. :] Cheers
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thank you for watching!
Zander Xymox (1 year ago)
Believe it or not, I am just getting ready to replace the brakes on my family's '04 V70R as well, so this video is a good refresher for me on how to complete the job. Oh also watch out for your radiator end caps, over time these start to crack and leak in most Volvos around this age. I had to replace my radiator a couple weeks ago due to this issue. Another thing that I've had an issue with is my fuel pressure sensor. This part has been replaced once already in our V70R and it needs to be replaced again. You'll know it needs to be replaced if the car feels like it is misfiring or seriously out of time on acceleration but does not throw out an engine code. I'm not sure on how much research you've done on these cars already so I'm just letting you know what my experience is with these vehicles. Great video, looking forward to more!
John Moreton (1 year ago)
If you had your timing belt replaced have the crank shaft pulley checked, if it has come loose, it can jump out of time and cause catastrophic Damage. Result engine replacement. Symptoms, no power on acceleration seems like other issues. I had this on my 04 V70R.
ShiftingLanes (1 year ago)
Thank you for watching! We're glad the tutorial can help you in the future. We'll add the radiator end cap and fuel pressure sensor issues to the list of stuff we'll be inspecting and watching out for. There's currently a long laundry list of stuff that needs to be upgraded/replaced but overall the car is in good working condition. Thanks again for the compliments and watching the video. Stay tuned!

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